Words by: DINEGIRL
Photos by: NICOLAS RAMIREZ
Tiro A Segno is the oldest Italian heritage organization in the United States, and is quietly situated in a beautiful four story building on MacDougal street. There is a lot of intrigue surrounding Tiro (tiro a segno translates to shoot the target) – from the tight membership, not knowing what really goes on here (and knowing to keep your mouth shut), to the old school rifle range in the cellar. So its no surprise that dinner invites to Tiro get rsvped yes straight away. Its a tough place to get into if you dont have the right connections, and there just arent many manly places left in an overly politically correct world.
On a very chilly Wednesday night, 25 of us gathered upstairs on the 4th floor private dining lounge for a Super Tuscan Biserno wine dinner. Hosted by Marchese Lodovico Antinori and Duncan Quinn in probably the most appropriate venue one could ask for, the night was Tuscany meets Italian American New York. Jacket and tie mandatory, and they dust one off for you if you’re not appropriately attired.
Places like Tiro are heavy on the atmosphere, so you might not expect much from the food. But surprisingly for this dinner the cuisine measured up beautifully. To start, the always classic caprese salad was served with a drizzling of Biserno’s own extra virgin olive oil, which was bright and fruity. Next course included a seafood risotto, perfectly buttery and creamy and delicious – a highlight of the meal. But the stars of the night were the wines. Il Pino di Biserno 2008 was well rounded, ripe, with just a hint of warm spice tones. Biserno 2008 was full bodied and bold, with deep berry harmony. This is your top of the line show piece Super Tuscan which should sit in your cellar for 20 years to mature.
Lodovico gave a beautiful speech in the warm candlelight about his passion for the terroir, care in production, and what it means to be an artisan. We finished off the evening with some fire igniting, throat clearing, puts-hair-on-your-chest 1990 Ron Navazos Palazzi. And of course the evening started and ended with a glass (or two, or three) of our old friend Krug Grand Cuve. This is the ultimate in Barbarian Dining, and yet ironically no one was barbaric that night. Perhaps its knowing that there is live ammunition a few flights down, the fancy table setting, or the refined grapes in an alluring setting. Or maybe it’s just that everyone is on their best and most gentlemanly behavior in the hopes of getting invited back to such a storied place.
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